11/2/2017
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Contax Serial Number List

Dating the Contax. Interested in when. This is due to the fact that Zeiss-Ikon used a letter code preceding actual serial number of any particular Contax camera. Serial Number Links for Leica Cameras and Lenses. Bruger' List; Recent Leica Lens Serial Numbers. Description and information on Contax I its history and how it works. Serial Number: AU21435 (1931). Albada view-finder for 5 cm and 13.5 cm lenses. GR10, Green filter, 42 mm push-on mount, in brown case. 'The New Universal Camera', pamphlet d.

Hello everyone, Hope you are all well and kicking it nicely. I am looking for a G2 these days and I am wondering where is the serial number. Some photographs (on ebay) show the base plate and a number inscribed on it. When asking though other people about the serial number, it usual comes in the shape of 5 numbers (ex: 01877), in the baseplate there are though 6 numbers (ex: 045067). When looking at my NX and N1, the serial number is in the baseplate. Q1) Are there 2 versions of the G2's serial numbers?

With 5 digits and 6 digits? Q2) I am looking also to find the newer (higher serial no.) bodies, which are the serials of the latest bodies? Or which bodies (with what serials) should I avoid if there have been faults in the past? Q3) I will get the 35/2 and the 45/2 for sure. But I wonder (as a user of zoom lenses) if its worth getting the 35-75 zoom as well. I know its half stop slower on 35, but how much slower does it get when reaching 45? Is it f4 or 3.5 still?

I seldom if ever use longer than 50, so the 90 I wont get and just wondering if the convenience of having the 35-75 is worth it. Q4) If any of you is willing to part with your 50mm 1.4 for Contax N, drop me a line too!! I am in the UK by the way. Thank you all again. PS: I did not know where else to post this question. So forgive me if I have posted it somewhere it may offend.

I don't think there was a set-in-stone pattern to the G2 serial numbers (like the Leica M). I wouldn't worry too much about that.if you get one that's in good condition, it should last you for quite awhile. I've had one of my G2s since 1996, still looks and operates as new. Biohazard 0 Gamecube Iso For Dolphin.

Lenses.it wouldn't make sense to get both the 35 & 45mm lenses since they are so similar in range, so I'd suggest the 45/2, probably one of the best lenses made for any camera, any brand. To go along with the 45/2, I'd suggest the 28/2.8, good for wide angle shooting. If you have the money, better yet is the 21/2.8. I also use the 90/2.8, another superb lenses. My opinion differes with Charles comment when he says it doesn't make sense to have both the 35mm and the 45mm. I have both and find them to have distinctive FOVs. I also do not see the 21mm as an alternative to the 28mm.

They are totally different to me. While I seldom change lenses and make do with what I have on the camera, I do find them to be very different. But you can make any of them work for just about anything. FWIW, I find the 35mm to be a very very good lens. The 21mm, 28mm and 45mm are spectacular. I shoot mostly with the 35mm because I like that FOV. My G-2's serial # is 011XXX.

Gta London Free Download Full Version. My G-1's serial # is 081XXX. I never looked at them before as I don't think they mean anything.

Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa (type 563/24) The Contax IIa was manufactured from 1950 to 1961, this one is what is known as a 'color-dial' model, the latter type made from 1954 to 1961, this one being made in mid 1956. The earlier ones are known as 'black-dial' model, and were made from 1950 to 1954. The names refer to the colour of the engraved numbers on the shutter speed dial.

On the earlier cameras the numbers were all black, while on the later ones the speeds from 1/100 to 1/1250 second were all coloured red, to signify that they are suitable for flash with FP bulb-flash, and the 1/50 second speed coloured yellow to signify the maximum synch speed for electronic flash. As you might expect, that is not the only difference. On the 'black-dial' cameras the flash synch port on the rear of the camera top-plate is actually a mechanical device. To connect a flash you need either the 'synchronizing switch' adapter for bulb-flash, or the adapter for electronic flash, which fits to the flash port.